What Boat to Build Now?

http://shawnkielty.blogspot.com/2021/09/the-redbird-in-nearing-completion.html 

 

Rodney --  260 lbs, carvel 3/8" planking,  laminated ribs, 10 horse outboard pus oars, trailer. ~16 foot.  

Coastal Runabout -- Ninigret.  Plywood with oak frames.  Overnight possible, with toilet.  30 horsepower in a well. Fish well

https://maineboats.com/print/issue-137/john-atkins-ninigret

Rogue River Dory -- Plywood over frames, oars,  10-20 horse outboard.

Panga -- The original Yamaha design  sported an 80 horse outboard.  This 22-25 foot beach landing craft is the classic nearshore fishing boat of the developing world.  Trailer. 

 

Adirondack Guide Boat 

http://www.michneboat.com/ -- Strip or clinker construction, Oars, 70 lbs.  

 

The Redbird

 So the Redbird in nearing completion.

 

 

Redbird Progress

After some time moving and a variety of repairs to my new home, I am finally getting back to work on the Redbird. Moving the boat right after the first side was glassed was interesting and probably I should have rented a trailer and moved it while still on the mold.

There is a small bit of damage where the hull has a interesting deflection in the bottom that appears to be a crack along one of the joints near the whiskey strip. The third image should show this. Also worth noting is my use of monofilament line to locate the center line of the strongback.  Drawing a straight 16 foot line is a seriously advanced skill, and despite my years it's pretty much beyond me.  I adhered the line at 1 foot intervals with nail polish.    

Initially I thought the next step would be to flip it over and glass the inside, but now, I think I would like to try to restore the original form, but it seems a bit difficult a best. I am going to put it back on the form and strap it in place, then add a small football of glass to cover the bottom equally on each side of the centerline, assuming that I will be able to pull the form together once it's back on the mold. At that point I think I can proceed as expected.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. I've included some shots of me rebuilding the strongback.

 

 

Redbird Progress

Enchiladas

Lentils ...

I  wonder if Klay Thompson or Drew Bledsoe remember driving out onto the Palouse (from Pullman) to get lentils ... you could literally go to a farm shack and drop a five dollar bill in a coffee can and take a 10 pound sack of lentils. When I lived in Pullman, we did that.  Although I would like to credit WSU for helping develop a great love for lentils, it wasn't there.  It was the street mujudarah at Cal State, Hayward.  

4" x 5" and 8" x 10" Single Sheet Film Daylight Developer

 Sheet film daylight developer for 4' x5" and 8' x 10" black and white sheet film (Assembled).   

 3 part developer tube for single 4" x 5" sheet film. The longer tube holds the film, the center piece is the light stop, and the smaller piece is the cap to allow changing the chemicals during processing.  This tube requires only 2 ounces of developer per sheet.

 The parts of an 8" x10" daylight development tube of the same basic design.  3" ABS tubing and sheet.  3 round flat sheet of ABS cut to the pipe diameter and cut at a chord to allow liquid to pass through.  2 3" ABS end caps., 1 @ 10" tube, 2@ 3" tube, 2 3" connectors, ABS glue.  An 8" x 10" and 4" x 5" film holder are included for scale.   

 Affix the flat piece to the end of the 3" section of tubing with the ABS glue and sand to reduce the flat to the size of the pipe.

Alternate the openings at 180 degrees on each end of one of the short sections of tubing. Affix the third piece to the end of the other 3" section of tubing.  

 Assemble and glue the pieces into three assemblies.

The construction of the 4" x 5" daylight developer is the same as the 8" x 10" except that it uses 1 1/2" ABS pipe instead of 3".

To use this, in a darkroom or dark bag, place the exposed film emulsion side in, into the long tube and put the light stop section onto the end of the tube to make it light safe.  Add developer (> 8 ounces for 8x10 and >2 ounces for 4x5) and cap the end. In a tray roll the tube for the appropriate development time.  When complete remove the end cap and dump the chemicals, add stop and cap, roll to agitate.  Repeat with fixer and rinse.

Combini Sandwiches

These sandwiches are common in convenience stores or sometimes a popular breakfast in Japan.
I will make two common choices, tuna and ham, A third popular one is egg salad, which is not hard to figure out, just like you might make in america, but with some sugar added.

 Canned tuna, japanese Mayo, mustard, scallions.

 Almost neatly trimmed white bread.

 Mix.

 Mayo on the bread for the tuna, Mayo-Mustard and lettuce (or in this case  kale) for the ham.

 Not so neat combini sandwiches.

Hu Jiao Bing

Okonomiyaki

When I was in Osaka, Japan, I remember some pretty delightful street food (and food in general).  The Okonomiyaki was unforgettable.   Here I try to recreate one of the delights I found there.  

   

 Fertile eggs from the garden.

 Konbu dashi stock and some water. 6-8 ounces.

 3 Scallions.

Small chop.

1/2 head of small cabbage.

Finely sliced into sticks.

Tenkasu, About 1 cup.

1/2 shallot. Small dice.

Mix flour with konbu dashi and mix until ther are no lumps. Add onions, shallot, cabbage, tenkasu and eggs. Other veggies may be added as well.

Some pickled ginger.

Mix thoroughly.

Render fat from bacon. Octopus or Shrimp may also be used, in which case skip the rendering step.

Heat skillet to high and add cabbage mixture in round slabs 3/4" thick. Add bonito and strips of bacon on top of this mixture.

When it browns like a pancake, flip. 

Cover and steam for a few minutes.Flip again to make the bacon is cooked.

Garnish with Okonomiyaki sauce and Japanese Mayonnaise.  You can make your own Okonomiyaki sauce.  Combine 1 ½ T. sugar, 2 T. oyster sauce, 4 T. ketchup, and 3 T. Worcestershire sauce in a small bowl.

Okanomiyaki!