Lessons in Grace ...

In The Charcoal Cathedral

4 days in the charred remains of an ancient wilderness. 26 miles on foot. 2 Black Bears, one Bald Eagle, 3 Mule Deer, a Western Tanager, the sound of an Owl. One river, three springs, two dogs, two friends. I think I might have heard the sound of a Woodpecker. 4 days in the charred remains of an ancient wilderness.

Humility sanctified. Lessons in grace.

There was hope. The trip was defined simply enough. Hike from Chinaman Hat to the Illinois River at Collier Bar via the 1161 (or 2) and 1174 trails in the Kalmiopsis wilderness. By way of Bald Mountain Spring, Polar Spring, and the spring at the Pup's Camp. Around 13 miles each way.

The trail was rough and hard at the beginning and end, with a 3000 ft. descent from Bald Mountain into the Illinois River canyon representing the most formidible feature. It was a difficult and challenging hike. The first day we hiked to Bald Mountain Spring and then to Polar Spring and broke off to make camp at the Pup's Camp, totalling 9 miles or so for the day. The climb from our parking spot to Bald Mountain spring barely served to warm us (my friend Jim and I, the dogs Josie and Lily) up, and as the day progressed it seemed clear that our pace was not going to bring us to the IllinoisRiver by the end of the day. We shot photos and videos and looked for cougar (0), or as the local teen trail cleaner girls called them, "Screamers," which was followed with a bit of giggling. And bears (2), or Elk (0) or Deer (3). We lally-gagged at the springs, drinking deeply, and growing used to the wilderness. Jet fighters flew through a cloudy sky to help minimize the culture shock.

We fought our way down the trail. There was a lot of debris, since the forest was burned to a crisp in the 2002 Biscuit fire. Some areas were also burned in the 1987 Silver Complex Fire. There were many fallen trees and branches blocking the trail. Sometimes it is so much easier to walk around and step over the obstacles. It appeared the no one had been down the trail since last summer. We were alone. There was very little life and no bird song. It was ominous and severely quiet.

Charred giants. Entire hilltops rendered treeless. Sticks remaining. Large sticks. A forest destroyed, charred beyond comprehension. I was there in 2003 or 2004, and although the carnage was obvious, I just saw the edge of it. The Biscuit fire was the largest fire in Oregon's history. That forest was torched, totalled.

It is still inherently beautiful.

There is no way to describe in words or pictures the awesome power whose force is evident before me. And how insanely gorgeous I found this forest to be.

Part of the reason for stopping at the Pup's Camp was my concern about my knee and going downhill. We spent the night there and in the morning we hiked the 4 miles and 2000 ft down into the steep Illinois River Canyon and set up camp. This was a bit hard on my knee. But not as bad as the poison oak. I have poison oak. I got it 3 or four different times on this trip. The trail was overgrown with Poison Oak. The Elder Brother says that "it used to be called the poison oak forest ... ." Jim insisted that I eat tablespoons of Certa™ and I put Gold Bond™ cream on it. It disappeared. Like a badge of honor that vanished. I swam and bathed in the Illinois River. We hardly moved from the camp at Collier Bar until Monday when we packed up and bailed out with a bit less than a days food left, to hike the 13 miles out. We did discover this hornet's nest hanging in a tree almost in camp.



Oh -- The mushroom girl might enjoy this.

Lily at the first bath in the Illinois River.

Jim the videographer.

Josephine in the river cooling down.

The hillside across the Illinois River from our camp.

Jim on the QRP (low power) radio checking in from Collier Bar.

Remember these.

And there was hope everywhere.

On the way back down the trail we met a party of 12 of Oregon's youth clearing the trail. Their leader told us that while we were out the fire level had risen to 2, meaning no open campfires, and that they were to spend a week clearing the trail to Silver Creek. They were a sign of hope in a stale climate of preserving, rather than enjoying the wilderness. 12 young people learning early lessons of work and joy in the wilderness. So there is hope, we saw other signs of hope.

Like the Black Capped Rasberries and Hungarian Blackberries that compensated for the fact that we had run out of food. I think we may have eaten several pounds of rasberries each.

Those are rasberries there in the foreground. Despite the dead trees everywhere, the understory had sprung to life with layers of Madrone and Douglas fir, oaks, rasberries and poison oak. There was a carpet of a youthful forest before us, promising to return to a past glory. There were places with a hundred fir trees per meter. It was stunning; brilliant in both the vibrance and urgency of the new growth.

Coming down the last hill, I hammered my toe, and I will probably lose the toenail. My knee was fine during this descent, and I am hoping that the pounding I took over 4 days has finally convinced my body to behave.

There was hope everywhere. Hope for me, in my 4 day marathon in charcoal, and hope for the forest. The two represent personal bests for me. Longest trip at 25+ miles, and longest single day at 13 miles.

End of the trail.

Trip Day

If you look closely at these two pictures you'll see some familiar things ... these shoes ... and all the regular stuff one takes into the wilderness. Matches, pink water bottles, a bandana ... GPS.

Tomorrow I will be sitting around with my old friend and we will be picking apart the contents of my backpack, commenting on the coffee pot and the can of sardines ... talking about bear spray, and escape routes over a map, and reducing the load one more time. I am sure it's not the addition of that titanium fork that pumps the weight up, but rather the way that things just seem to get heavier over time. Although the two extra days of food could contribute, we all know that a fleece vest weighs about a pound when you buy it, but after carrying it for a while it weighs about ten. This is not a function of fatigue, but rather a general property of things to get heavier over time. It's called the uncertainty principle. You'll never quite know how much you're going to have to carry.

Despite knowing and planning for the afternoon showers and humidity, I will probably eliminate the rain gear in favor of the river shoes or try to strip the first aid kit by half. For some reason this pack is about 10 pounds heavier than it was back then. It's 50 pounds, and oh man -- there's no camera in it. Adding the 10 lbs I would normally wear and the 4 pounds of camera, my burden will be 64 lbs. Ouch. Once I eat all the food ...

It's always too heavy. Jim will remind me that I don't need an extra day's meals and that maybe I don't really need that jar of prunes dried fruit. He will carry about 70 lbs. while I struggle with 40 50. Go figure.

Velogirl Sighting

That's right, I definitely saw the velogirl (on the pink bike) zipping in front of me this afternoon, and I was, embarrassingly, riding on the sidewalk near my home. I said "Hello", but well, it was rush hour, and she had clearly already made it through the scary intersection. Maybe next time we'll get a chance to say "Hi." I think I heard a "Hello" back -- she might have recognized me -- but it was uber busy, cars and traffic and me in a hurry.

Remodeling the Wilderness

That can't be what they mean.

White Pelicans in Mayfield Slough

"Hey, Where are You Going? ...

... the brown maps are over here. You always get the brown maps." My map order is here and the maps are green. Four maps. Onion Mountain to Chinaman Hat to Bald Mountain to Polar Spring to Collier Bar on the Illinois River. That's 4 green maps. Southern Oregon is green, and so are the maps. Gosh, I hope there's water.

I am packing now for a trip in the Kalmiopsis Wilderness. The plan is 4 days, and I am guessing about 30 miles. Fire season is here and I am concerned about using liquid fuel in a highly volatile forest. I may look into a propane stove for the summer months here in the west.

The top photo is Rainie Falls on the Rogue River, and the others are from a place we (the other Jane and I) stopped during a hike to Rainie Falls several years ago.

I Took a Week Off from Cycling and ...

... miss the expediency, and my bike riding buddies on the train. The walking has been good though. The pain is receding -- so tomorrow I am taking the new Giant to work.

Me at the bike shop. "It goes pedal, pedal, pedal, clunk ... pedal pedal, pedal, clunk. I think the bottom bracket is out of adjustment."

"It looks ok to me," says the clerk.

"Maybe you should try to ride it."

Well the BB was a 1/4 turn out and there was a few loose things here and there. It's feeling very reliable, and almost brand new. I gave my son my commuter so he is going to ride it to his gig every day. He took all the cool stuff (like the rack) off, cause he wants a faster bike. Go figure.

Damage in the General Direction ...

... of travel. Let's imagine now that we are getting better rather than worse. just for a few minutes.

Some signifigant changes in the bone locations in my right foot (pop, pop, pop) and some popping in my knee, and I'm noticing some more than occasional pain in new places. And these three bruises on my knee. Two in this picture on the inside of the knee, near the lower end of the femur, and one on the outside of the right kneecap. It seems my body might be trying to find a more comfortable position.

I am still mobile, however it seems a bit more painful each day. If I have caught the lucky break, I'll start being able to walk downhill again.

A Mountain Bike ...

My son's Giant™. It is about 987% aluminum. so it must be light. It has a shock that works and two empty tires. Rumour has it that it came from Wal-Mart. No wonder it has empty tires ... and loose bits, like the crank and the headset. Otherwise it looks pretty fair. It will need a bit of adjustment here and there. I have to hand over my commuter next time I see him and we have a swap for the summer.

Now, I need some one to teach me how and where to ride it ... I hear that there are trails at waterdog lake.

A Younger Me

Ok, so i am on foot. I have been walking half of my commute, and driving the other half. 3 miles a day for 9 miles so far this week. Why? You might ask.

I am getting ready for a pack trip in July and another one to the Colorado River in September or so. I need to get my blown out knees to work better. so I am:

1. Walking on them
2. Using linamint
3. Taking cod liver oil from a jar with a spoon
4. Contemplating taking some beer glucosamine and chondroitin
5. Using the hot tub
6. Praying
and 7. Begging Blogging

July is a trip to the Illinois River in the Kalmiopsis Wilderness in Southern Oregon. It will be a multi-day backpack trip with serious hill climbing and 10 mile days. Character building, I'd imagine.

The photo is a scanned 4"x5" Polaroid taken with my Graflex after carrying that 45 lb. beast 4.5 miles to Babyfoot Lake, in the Kalmiopsis Wilderness. I took this picture in the year following the Biscuit Fire, which was the largest fire in Oregon's history. We walked through a smoky charred forest to get here.

WildFlowers at McNee Ranch

We saw quite a few wildflowers on the hike in McNee Ranch State Park.







View the entire set.

Gray Whale Cove -- McNee Ranch State Park, CA

Oh -- many of you will recognize this Gray Whale Cove beach. Today I went out for a day on the coast with my friend John -- and took a hike above the the beach right out near Devil's slide, from Montara beach to the beach at Gray Whale Cove. I think we may have hiked 3-4 miles total. Afterwards, we had lunch at some Brewing Company nearby, and then wandered around a bit at Pillar Point Harbor and Princeton.

Despite the current abundance of Humpback whales on the California coast now, and the name of the cove being Gray Whale Cove, we didn't see any whales. It was quite foggy -- so we didn't see much beyond the immediate vicinity. We did hear some sea lions, and see one in the harbor finally.

You can see 89 photos from today here.

Last Summer at Squam Lake

New Drops

Old Skool ... wow that's a kinda wild color. They will go great with some cotton tape and shellac. They have a new owner.

One of those Days

It was with absolute and complete amazement that I found myself still intact and on my bike, just a split second after noticing a vehicle bumber just inches from me and approaching quickly. I've never been so close to being hit.

Then I got a flat during dinner at my mother's. And another on the way home. I think I may need to walk for a few days.

Hmmm, Trouble in Paradise

This is a fancy-butt 4 battery Cat-Eye headlamp for my bicycle. Nice big beam, lots of light. Lasts a long time. Trouble is, it doesn't turn off. Fortunately, I have another one just like it.

Maybe I should send it back to Cat-eye.

Graflex Graphic View 4x5

This is my camera, in the McLoed river in Northern California, as photographed by Cindy Diaz, sometime in 2005. Here's a picture of me just moments before that (photo Cindy Diaz).

What'cha got in That Bag of Yours?

Jill asks? Nothin' really.

Lately, I am using a North Face Yavapai daypack. In it is:

The Canon 20D + 80-200 EF Zoom lens. This is kinda important, albeit pretty hefty.

A book about Ant (not ants -- silly) . The fact that I need a book about ant is proof that I am not actually a geek. All geeks already know ant.

A small tire repair kit -- This typically is used to repair other people's tires, or my own in a dire emergency.

A hair brush -- left over from when I had more hair. Notice the hair bob.

No less than 2 checkbooks.

An Aurora headlamp.

A new copy of Edward Abbey's Desert Solitaire. I gave the last copy to a young woman headed for New Zealand. Hopefully she'll show up one day soon to tell me she was too busy having fun to read it.

Serfas'™ Multi-tool, Spare tube, and 3 tire gadgets. These used to be iron ...

CalTrain Schedule.

Reflective stickers that say Real®.

Jar of Icy Hot®

Registration and smog paperwork for two different cars.

Jar of cod liver oil capsules.

Well, that's maybe too much stuff. At least it's not winter. In which case there would be an extra pair of socks, and shoes, rain gear, and something decidedly warm.

Bennies

Corporate kicked down some cool items for those of us who rode in on bike to work day. Logo emblazend reflective gadgets and a sand control device for having sex picnics at the beach. Also included was a very nice bike map of Seattle, which I am going to post on the wall of the San Francisco office so we can all use it for reference. I looked around for the free bike to work jerseys with the Rolling Stone cover image of John Lennon naked ... but no ... there wasn't any of those. There was a little hacky sack though -- that said "Real".

Anyone care to guess where I work? I never talk about my work on my blog. I am breaking one of my basic rules. "Thou shall not yak about one's work". It seems my readers want to know. They're curious.

So for the further curious, I work for Real, as a Transportation Consultant bike enthusiast. Technically, I am a Software Test Engineer, which means I listen to the music I download to my mp3 player, and if it doesn't sound right I write up a report. Otherwise, I continue to listen and try not to steal any one's scooter or drop any juggling balls on anyone's desk, or spill my granola into my keyboard, interrupting my game of COD. I ride a skateboard on the hardwood indoors to test the gain -- is it loud enough?

Since I am actually really a test and release engineer for the software tools that publish stuff (content) for Rhapsody™, mostly I write tests and build tools, take out trash, and do the dishes. I try not to think of release day as hellweek, but then again, sometimes you can crash when your riding a stolen scooter.

It's a cool job, in a cool spot, and seriously, I work hard, and hopefully, everything sounds better, looks better, feels better, because of it.

And now this recruiter over at Netflix is poking at me. But I am so jealous of the guy I met on the train that works at Flickr. Now that's a cool job. But me -- I work at the place where music lives, and I like it.

Oh Yeah

I thought you said you had a bike. I said I had a broken computer on my bike. The car has a broken speedometer. My daughter borrowed the car. I had to try and register it. My daughter came home from college and she borrowed the car so now I am back on my bike. I have to get my truck on the road again, so I can drive too. My son is learning to drive. I get scared easily.

I miss the new Jane -- I saw her last week and that made me want to move. I have a brand new job, I work where music lives, and I listen to music for a living (not really, but sometimes I am actually supposed to listen to music). It's a good job if you can get it. It's a cool place where people juggle and wear headphones, and ride scooters around in the office, and there's free organic fruit, organic beer, and organic granola. It is less than a block from my old job. The company provides us with free copies of Rolling Stone Magazine. If you're my friend and I recommend you to work there -- they will give me money and I will buy you lunch. Then you can listen to music too, forget to shave, look like Peter Falk, threaten to grow your hair out again, and get paid with organic money. Unfortunately, I can't move right now. I have a new job.

But -- I thought you said you had a bike. Well, it's busy where music lives, and so I don't get to play on the blog quite as much. But, hey -- I still get to ride my bike.

Gilded Flicker Nest at Usery Mountain

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnkielty/sets/72157600228355293/

Usery Mountain Park

Saguaro cactus in bloom.

Barrel cactus in bloom.

...

Turkey vulture, "Hey, I am not dead yet!"

Cactus Wren.

The Coefficient of Juju

So it started, a small idea for a little trip. A short pack trip. One night with a modest hike near Phoenix. Here we three are at the start, at the Reavis Ranch trail head. 3.5 miles up and a steep uphill -- to find this view --

and then we descend into Shawn's Garden, proclaimed to be so by me, because of it reminding me of Garden Valley. It was confirmed immediately by the Happy Hiking Guy™, and Dale was there to witness it, so now it is true, and I think the USGS is going to add the place name to the maps. You'll see another picture of it later, because, frankly, I liked it.



These are Beavertail Cactus of some sort or another. They are spiny and I think I still have some spines sticking out from my neck from when I smacked one with my face.

The descent into Reavis Creek was steep and despite a lot of preparation my right knee was threatening to disable me slow me down. Add vitamin I.

We saw this Horny Toad (Phrynosoma platyrhinos calidiarum, technically a Horned Lizard), which was cool. The horned toad has a very high coefficient of juju. One might ask, what is the coefficient of juju? This was actually Dale's terminology. I was talking about juju, as it relates to desert critters, like coyotes or lizards. I always thought juju was sort of like luck plus savvy. A lizard can run across hot desert sand and hide through camouflage, and then just when you've managed to get ahold of his tail, he breaks it off, combining surprise with speed to escape to safety. That's some large coefficient of juju. Man makes water from a desert mud hole and gets a desert survival badge. I was a bit worried the pain in my knee would lower my juju.



This is the Sierra Designs Light Year single and my home for the night. My playmates went off to find Reavis Falls while I looked around for an ice pack for my knee, made water and ate.

My legs were seriously cooked and my feet (dogs in the vernacular of Dale) were throbbing, which proved a bit difficult in the somewhat limited space of the SD Light Year.

The trip out went well.

This is the overview of Shawn's Garden. It is difficult to do this any justice with a camera. It might be the biggest collection of Beavertail cactus in one place in the world, who knows. Enlarge this photo and look at how many thousands of pads there are. Although I wasn't lame at all on the trip out, as you can see in this picture, Dale has my food bag hanging from his backpack, and I am following him like Pavlov's dog. Despite being 4 miles from the car, I am seriously ready for a bowl of screaming hot chili at Tortilla Flat. I stopped for lunch about 45 minutes later.

Me with Apache Lake in the background.

There's the car and two bowls of that chili.

Gilded Flicker

Be sure not to miss the fledgling in the nest. This is really just a little tease I pulled out of about 400 images taken over the last few days.

On the Other Side

I made it out. It was great fun and I hurt in more than a few places. My thighs are burning and my feet are still throbbing, but right now I am looking for some Thai food and resting for the drive home. Some 15 miles in two days, with about 3000' of vertical, each way. I took a short recovery hike this morning.

I can't get the photos into the computer here at the Mesa Public Library, so you'll have to wait. There will be pictures in a few days.

Superstition Wilderness, Camp at Reavis Creek

Starring Dale. There was just a small amount of running water in Reavis Creek. This is Saturday after the 8 mile trek.

Day 1 --Reavis Ranch Trail